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Genuine Honda Passport Wheel Cylinder

Brake Wheel Cylinder
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2 Wheel Cylinders found

  • Honda Passport Wheel Cylinder - 8-97230-425-0
    Diagram for Honda Passport Wheel Cylinder - 8-97230-425-0
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    Honda Passport Wheel Cylinder, Rear Brake

    Part Number: 8-97230-425-0
    $100.13 MSRP: $164.07
    You Save: $63.94 (39%)
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    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: Wheel Cylinder
    • Position: Rear
    • Replaces: 8-94233-500-5, 8-94233-500-4, 8-94233-500-3, 8-94233-500-6
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Honda's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 2000-2002 Honda Passport | 4 Door 2EX, 4 Door 2EX-L, 4 Door 2LX | KA 4AT, KA 5MT
    • 1994-1996 Honda Passport | 4 Door DX | KA 5MT, KL 5MT
  • Honda Passport Wheel Cylinder - 8-97127-616-0
    Diagram for Honda Passport Wheel Cylinder - 8-97127-616-0
    View related parts

    Honda Passport Cylinder, Rear Wheel Brake

    Part Number: 8-97127-616-0
    $58.93 MSRP: $96.55
    You Save: $37.62 (39%)
    ADD TO CART
    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: Wheel Cylinder
    • Position: Rear
    • Replaces: 8-94230-541-3, 8-94230-541-4, 8-94230-541-0, 8-94230-541-5, 8-94230-541-2, 8-94230-541-1
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Honda's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 1998-1999 Honda Passport | 4 Door 2EX, 4 Door 2EX-L, 4 Door 2LX | KA 4AT, KA 5MT, KL 4AT, KL 5MT

Honda Passport Wheel Cylinder Parts Questions & Experts Answers

  • Q: What steps should be followed for overhauling a wheel cylinder due to fluid leakage or sticky operation on Honda Passport?
    A: These frequently require some juggling, If an overhaul is indicated because of leakage or too sticky movement, don't start the job without giving it a second thought. New wheel cylinders are on the market, so this task is rather simple. In case you decide to rebuild the wheel cylinder, see to it that before hand, a rebuild kit is on hand. Never rebuild only one wheel cylinder; it is always done on both at the same time. Begin with the brake drum and the brake shoes should be first to be pulled out. Remove the brake line fitting on the back side of the wheel cylinder use the flare nut wrench in order not to oval the nuts. Remove the brake backing plate wheel cylinder by unstowing the tube nut and following by the two retaining bolts. To get to the brake shoe adjuster wheel, the ob-long plug under the wheel cylinder has to be removed. To avoid bending the metal line avoid pulling it out from the wheel cylinder. Then, unbolt the two bolts of the wheel cylinder to the brake backing plate and then, take out the wheel cylinder. Screw back the end of the brake line to keep the brake fluid from spitting out and allow dirt to enter the system. For the overhaul, remove wheel cylinder rubber boot, wheel cylinder pistons and cups, the cup return spring. Replace the rubber parts with new ones from the rebuild kit during assembly of the tool as recommended. Pistons should be checked for such defects as scoring and scuffing; if present, pistons should be replaced. Check the inside of the cylinder bore for score marks, rust; if honed, it may be useful again, but it is probably best to replace it. If so, then the cylinder must be washed with brake system cleaner or denatured alcohol. Bleeder screw must be removed while you should ensure the hole is clear. The cylinder bore has to be coated with clean brake fluid and one of the new supplied rubber cups has to be installed with its lip facing inside. Insert the spring into the other end of the bore and thread it to engage the rear of the rubber cup, the final cup can then be fitted. Place the rubber boots regarding the pistons; then, fit the pistons and boots. The wheel cylinder is now prepared to be installed which is the process done in a reverse step from the above. Before tightening the mounting bolts of the wheel cylinder put in the brake line and connect the tube nut fitting but do not turn it yet. If a flare-nut wrench is provided, tighten the tube nut fitting and also the wheel cylinder mounting bolts to the recommended torque. Last but not the least, make the necessary brake bleeding and do not take the car to traffic until the brakes have been tested.

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